Santa Maria Maggiore (1162-1216)
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According to tradition, St Sabinus built the first cathedral of Assisi here in the 4th century, close to the Roman city walls and to the Temple of Janus. No trace of this ancient church survives, but the existence of the cathedral here dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta was documented in 963, and the crypt of the present church seems to derive from the 9th or 10th century.
Santa Maria Maggiore remained the cathedral of Assisi until the 11th century, when San Rufino began to assume this function (see below). Nevertheless, the church remained important, and was largely rebuilt during the late 12th century:
An inscription at the centre of the rose window records that Iohannes (perhaps Giovanni da Gubbio) built the facade in 1162.
Another inscription in the apse (on the left, at the top of the steps) records that this part of the church was built in 1216, at the time of Bishop Guido and Brother Francis. (This is the earliest surviving written reference to St Francis.)
The church was badly damaged in the earthquake of 1832, when the ceiling of the nave and its right aisle were destroyed, along with many of its frescoes and its stained glass.
Facade
The façade owes its current appearance to a restoration carried out in 1938, although it retains its original eight-rayed rose window and central portal. The marble in the lunette of this portal once formed part of the basin of a Roman fountain. The lintel over the side door is also original.
Interior
The nave, which has a trussed roof, is separated from the vaulted aisles by walls, each of which has three arched openings. Steps at the end of the nave lead up to the presbytery and the semicircular apse, and down to the crypt (see below). Notice the relief (8th century?) with braided decoration that is now embedded in the wall beside the stairs.
A sarcophagus (8th century?) that was found in the crypt now stands in the right aisle near the counter-façade.Altare di San Giuseppe
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This altar is altar at the end of the left aisle. The back wall was plastered at some point, so only the frescoes (1640) of St Joseph holding the Virgin's wedding ring (on the right) and St Francis (on the left) were visible. Traces of a larger fresco under the plaster were discovered some 20 years ago, but it was only after the earthquake of 1997 that the full work was recovered. The restoration work revealed a fresco of the Crucifixion (ca. 1560), which has been attributed to Dono Doni.
The work as it now appears is composed within a large fictive frame. The Virgin and St John the Evangelist flank the Crucifix. Two kneeling angels in the lunetta above flank the IHS monogram.
Details of the restoration can be found at the website of Nardini Restauro.
Frescoes
Madonna della Misercordia with saints (late 14th century)This fresco is on the left wall of the nave, between the first two arches. The Madonna is depicted protecting male and female penitents under her cloak. St Blaise (to the left) holds the wool comber with which he was martyred) and Lucy (to the right) appears after her defenestration, holding her eyes on a plate. The inscription below gives the date MCCCLXXX
, indicating that the fresco post-dates 1380. It is likely that Confraternita dei Disciplinati di Santa Maria Maggiore, which was also known as the Confraternita di S. Biagio, commissioned it.
These frescoes are under the 1st arch on the left (facing the altar). St Stephen (above) is depicted as a deacon. St Onuphrius (Onofrio, Humphrey) is depicted as a hermit, visited by an angel [bringing him bread].
Pietà (late 15th century)
This fresco, which is on the left wall of the nave, between the 2nd and 3rd arches, is attributed to Tiberio d' Assisi.
Madonna and Child (mid 14th century)
This fresco, which is under the 3rd arch on the left (facing the counter-facade) is attributed to Pace di Bartolo.
Annunciation (mid 14th century)
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A lovely figure of the angel of the Annunciation on the left wall of the presbytery was recovered after the 1997 earthquake and then restored. It is attributed to Pace di Bartolo.
The complete but unrestored fresco of the Annunciation to the right of it is broadly contemporary with it.
Crypt
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The apse of the crypt forms the foundation of the apse of the church above. The body of the crypt extends one bay to the right: the corresponding extension to the left was destroyed when the campanile was built in the 12th century. The columns seem to have come from a Roman building.
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