Orvieto - Walk II
From Piazza della Repubblica |
This seems to have been the site of the forum of the Etruscan city and was the centre of civic life (the Platea Comunis, Piazza del Comune or Piazza Maggiore) in the early middle ages. It was the site of an important civic fountain (ca. 1276) that was fed by a new aqueduct (see Walk IV).
The present church of Sant’ Andrea (illustrated above) stands on the site of an Etruscan temple. The people of Orvieto seem to have built a church here in the 6th century, soon after their return from exile in Bolsena. The [old cathedral] of Orvieto was dilapidated from at least the 12th century, and Sant’ Andrea was the most important church in the city before the building of San Francesco (ca. 1240-64) and then of the new Duomo (ca.1290-1310).
The (much restored) twelve-sided tower (12th century) to the right of Sant’ Andrea was probably originally the Torre Civica, although it was later adapted to form the campanile of the church. The first palace of the civic authorities, Palazzo Comunale, was built to the right of it in 1216-9 and the nobles from the contado came here each year to reaffirm their allegiance to the Commune. The municipal fountain (1276) in front of it, which was designed by Fra’ Bevignate and restored by Lorenzo Maitani in 1324, was unfortunately later demolished (see below).
By1485, Palazzo Comunale was in such a poor state or repair that the Council held its meetings in the Palazzo Vescovile (see Walk I). The collapse of the Torre Comunale in 1515 led to the decision to rebuild the palace and to re-organise the piazza.
- The plans originally came to nothing and matters came to a head in 1563, when the loggia of the palace facing Sant' Andrea was demolished because it threatened to collapse. The municipal fountain was also demolished at this point, and some of is bronze was re-used to cast a new bell for San Francesco.
- In 1574, Ippolito Scalza was finally commissioned to rebuild the palace, but this works stopped in 1581 before the planned extension to the right had begun. Scalza’s
designs for the façade of the palace survive in the [Museo
dell'Opera]. He intended to re-use the existing fabric and to extend
it so that the ground floor loggia would comprise the seven original
arches and four more to the right.
- Work started in 1573 but was abandoned in 1581 before the extension had begun. This change of plan is obvious from the current appearance of the facade:
- the second arch from the right is distinguished by double columns because it was originally destined to house the central portal of the palace; and
- Via
Garibaldi passes through the original central arch, although it was
almost certainly intended that it should be diverted to pass through
the new one.
The piazza was named again in honour of King Vittorio Emanuele II in 1861 and then in 1946 for the newly proclaimed Italian Republic.
Take a short detour along Via Garibaldi to look at its rear of the palace. Virginio Vespignani designed the neoclassical travertine arch as a ceremonial entrance to the civic centre from Porta Romana (see below) when Pope Pius IX visited Orvieto in 1857.
The public entrance to the palace is to the left of the restaurant on the left (at the extreme left of the photograph).
Take a short by continuing along Via Garibaldi and turning right along Via Ripa de' Medici. Fork right past Palazzo de' Medici (above, on the right) to look down on Porta Romana.
Palazzo MediciThis palace might have belonged to the Medici of Florence. [Traces of an earlier 13th century palace] |
Porta Romana (1822)This was the site of Porta Pertusa (12th century). This gate replaced it as part of the road widening that included the construction of Via Cassia Nuova. |
Return to Piazza della Repubblica:
- Palazzo Ottaviano is opposite and to the left (at number 18-24)
The palace to the right of it (at number 26) is now the excellent Bar Il Sant' Andrea.
Palazzo Ottaviani (19th century)
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Bar Il Sant' Andrea (1857)Virginio Vespignani designed the neo-Palladian facade of this palace at the time of the visit of Pope Pius IX. It was originally used by the municipal and provincial administrations. |
Cross the piazza and leave it by Via dell' Misercordia (opposite Via Garibaldi). Cross Piazza Vitozzi and continue along Via della Misercordia.
The street swings to the left at the ex-church of Sant' Agnese (at number 6 on the right)
The Oratorio della Misercordia is just beyond it (at number 4 on the right).
Sant' Agnese [date ??][Details ?? Dedicated to St Agnes of Montepulciano ??] The church is now de-consecrated and has been adapted as a house. [A series of frescoes (16th century) survives inside.] |
Oratorio della Misercordia (16th century) |
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The road comes to an end at the junction with Via Pecorelli.
It is possible to detour at this point to visit the necropolis of the Crocifisso del Tufo, although you can alternatively visit the necropolis as part of Walk IV. If you decide to do it now, turn right, passing a portal on the left (at number 15) that has the name of Cardinal Girolamo Simoncelli on its lintel. Follow it as it swings to the right and cross the car park o the left to the top of the steps that lead down the cliff face. No trace of Porta Vivaria here surivives: it led to a steep and narrow
path down the c that was used in times of war. The new steps lead down to the necropolis at the foot of the cliff. After your visit, retrace your steps to the junction of Via dell' Misercordia and Via Pecorelli.
Turn left (or, if you are returning from the necropolis, continue) along Via Pecorelli into Piazza dell’ Erba. The well (1571) at the centre was designed by Ippolito Scalza for Piazza del Comune and moved here early in the 20th century. The palace ahead (opposite the one illustrated above) is Palazzo Mancini.
Palazzo Mancini (16th century)The palace was built on the site of a medieval tower house, the tower of which can still be seen to the right. There is a series of lovely cruciform windows on the first floor. |
Return to and cross Piazza della Repubblica, and leave it along Via Loggia dei Mercanti (to the right of Palazzo del Comune). This takes you past a number of medieval tower houses and to the ex-church of San Giovannino dei Cavalieri di Malta on the left.
San Giovannino dei Cavalieri di Malta (14th century)The inscription on the fine façade of this church record that it was
the “Commenda” of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem. It was dedicated to St John the Baptist. It now serves as a garage. Little seems to be known about its history, but it fortunately preserves its fine Gothic facade. |
Torre Polidori at the junction with Via Commenda on the right is the tallest surviving in Orvieto, albeit that it has been truncated.
The Loggia dei Mercanti, for which the street is named, is on the left at the end. This complex, which provided a meeting place for merchants, passed to the Carmelites in 1328 and became the site of the church and convent of Santa Maria dei Carmine. The street ends in Piazza Ranieri.
- The truncated Torre Ranieri is opposite.
- The back of Palazzo Aviamonzi Alberici is [where ??].
- The ex-church and monastery of San Lodovico stands to the left of the tower.
Palazzo Aviamonzi Alberici (16th century)Cardinal Tiberio Crispo used this palace in the 1540s and might have commissioned ts frescoes, which are similar to those that he commissioned for Castel Sant' Angelo, Rome as castellan in 1542-5. |
Turn right out of the piazza and fork left along the picturesque Via Ripa Serancia, passing under a fine 13th century arch.
This leads to Piazza San Giovanni, which contains:
the church and convent of San Giovanni Evangelista;
the ex-church of Santa Maria del Pianto; and
- the Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista dei Disciplinati to the left of it (at number 35).
Santa Maria del Pianto (1768)This church, which is dedicated to Our Lady Of Tears, was built by an individual named as Filippo de Solis. |
Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista dei Disciplinati (1578)The Confraternita dei Disciplinati built this oratory, which was linked to San Giovanni Evangelista. The oratory was restored in 1611-7. The lintel bears the inscription: "SOCIETAS SAN IONNI BATT". |
Walk along the left of San Giovanni Evangelista to the entrance to Vicola dei Malcorini, which is named for the Vipera and Cane factions of the warring Monaldeschi clan. In 1338, the leaders of the factions agreed to go into exile, but this clan subsequently broke the agreement and became known as the "Malcorini" (from "di mal core" or “of bad heart”).
Follow Vicola dei Malcorini sharply downhill following the line of the medieval fortifications. The walled stretch at the bottom of the hill passes over Porta Maggiore (see Walk IV). There are fine views of Via della Cava on the right. To the left , you can see some of the places visited on Walk IV, including (from the left):
- the medieval aqueduct;
- the excavations at Campo della Fiera; and
Continue up along Via Volsinii II and then turn left into Via Volsinii I. An interesting medieval house at this junction is under restoration. The road soon enters Piazza San Giovenale and the church of San Giovenale.
Leave Piazza San Giovenale by Via Malabranca. The ex-church and convent of of Sant’ Agostino is on the left.
Return to Via Malabranca, which passes Palazzo Caravajal Simoncelli (number 15) and Palazzo Filippeschi Simoncelli (number 22).
Palazzo Caravajal Simoncelli (16th century) |
Palazzo Filippeschi Simoncelli (15th century) |
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There are fine views from the terrace opposite Palazzo Filippeschi Simoncelli that include the back of
San Giovanni Evangelista with its campanile and below, the lantern of
the church of the Madonna della Cava.
Walk back along Via della Cava and on to Via Filippeschi, which leads back to Piazza della Repubblica, where the walk ends.