Narni 


Narni is on the main line from Rome to Foligno, so there is no problem with access.  The station is at Narni Scalo, and frequent buses take you to Piazza Garibaldi in about 10 minutes.  I stayed at Hotel dei Priori, which is very central and has a decent restaurant with a nice courtyard.  I also had a good meal at Il Gattamelata.

Narni provides a good base for daytrips to Amelia and Otricoli.  I spent four days here in May 2006, intending to follow this strategy.  It nearly worked out, but you need to remember that:

  • there are no inter-urban buses on Sundays;

  • the Antiquarium at Otricoli and the Rocca of Narni are only open on Saturdays and it is difficult to do both on the same day; and

  • the important Museo Civico of Amelia shuts on Mondays.

The most interesting things in Narni are:

  • San Giovenale (the Duomo), which is a harmonious mixture of architectural styles and is steeped in history; and

  • Narni Sotterranea, an unmissable tour of the churches under San Domenico and Santa Maria Impensole.

There is little trace of pre-Roman Nequinium, and not much of Roman Narnia, although the street plan of the latter largely survives.  Palazzo Priori was the heart of the medieval city, but its appearance was spoilt during my visit by the renovation work on Palazzo Comunale.  That also made it impossible to see the collection of Roman antiquities in the atrium of the palace and restricted access to the Sala del Consiglio, which houses Ghirlandaio's Coronation of the Virgin.  The Pinacoteca has a small but interesting collection, although its star attraction, Benozzo Gozzoli's Annunciation, was not on display when I visited.

I enjoyed the Narni Scalo walk, which is best on Sundays.  I arrived at Santa Maria del Piano too late for Mass, which finished at 10 am sharp, so I did not get inside.  I also arrived too early for Mass at San Cassiano (4pm), and did not have the energy to return.  However, there is a contact number (included on the Narni Scalo page) if you want to arrange a specific time to visit to San Cassiano. 

I failed to make it inside the Rocca, and decided that the walk up to it is not particularly rewarding if it is closed.  Check its opening hours early in your visit if you really want to see it. 

The saddest thing about Narni is that all three of its mendicant churches have been deconsecrated:

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